Lowlights: Depth and Dimension Guide

Do your blonde clients complain that their color looks “flat,” lifeless, like a uniform block? Or do you have clients who want to disguise their gray hair naturally without committing to full coverage?

Lowlights are dark highlights—darker than the base color—that add depth, dimension, and movement. They’re the perfect complement to highlights and a technique every professional colorist should master.

In this guide, you’ll learn what they are, how to apply them step by step, formulas for different objectives, and the mistakes to avoid. This article is part of our complete guide to professional coloring techniques.

What Are Lowlights and Why They Work

Lowlights are strands colored 1-3 levels darker than the base color. Unlike highlights (which lighten), lowlights darken strategic sections to create depth, dimension, and movement. They use permanent or semi-permanent dye without bleach, making them one of the lowest-damage coloring techniques.

Factor	Lowlights	Highlights
Action	Darken strands	Lighten strands
Product	Dye (no bleach)	Bleach
Objective	Depth and dimension	Light and brightness
Damage	Minimal	Variable by developer
Ideal for	Flat blondes, disguising grays	Dark hair wanting light
Maintenance	Fades gradually	Visible regrowth

According to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, the perception of depth in hair depends on tonal contrast. When all hair has the same level, the eye perceives it as flat. By introducing tonal variations—lights and darks—we create an illusion of volume and movement.

Characteristic Results

• Real dimension: Hair appears thicker and fuller
• Breaks monotony: Eliminates the “helmet” effect of uniform color
• Natural depth: Mimics how hair grows naturally
• Disguises gray: Integrates it into the overall tonal variation

When to Choose Lowlights

Situation	Lowlights?
Blonde that looks flat or lifeless	Yes
Wants to disguise gray without full coverage	Yes
Balayage too uniform at the ends	Yes
Over-processed blonde that needs an “anchor”	Yes
Dark client who wants to lighten	No (highlights better)
First color service	Depends on objective

Lowlights Step by Step: Complete Technique

The lowlights technique is similar to traditional highlights, but with some key differences in formulation and placement.

Step 1: Evaluation and Consultation

Before starting, analyze your client’s hair:

1. Current level: Is it natural blonde, bleached, or dyed?
2. Porosity: Porous hair absorbs more pigment
3. Distribution: Where does she need more depth?
4. Objective: Subtle dimension or visible contrast?

Pro tip: In highly bleached hair, lowlights may oxidize differently. Always do a strand test to verify the final result.

Step 2: Product Preparation

Lowlights don’t require bleach. We work with permanent or semi-permanent dye.

Base formula for lowlights:

Dye 1-3 levels darker than base
+ 10-20 vol developer
Ratio: 1:1 or per manufacturer

The choice between permanent and semi-permanent depends on desired durability and hair condition.

Step 3: Strategic Placement Pattern

Unlike highlights that concentrate in natural light zones, lowlights are placed in shadow zones:

Zone	Density	Objective
Nape	High	Depth in less visible area
Under crown	Medium-high	Contrast when hair moves
Sides (interior)	Medium	Dimension in inner layers
Face frame	Low or none	Maintain light around face
General roots	Variable	Simulate natural depth

Key rule: Less is more. Too many lowlights can darken the overall result.

Step 4: Application Technique

1. Section the hair into panels (nape, sides, crown)
2. Selective weave: Take fine to medium strands
3. Place foil underneath
4. Apply dye from roots toward mids (not always ends)
5. Close foil without pressing
6. Alternate with untreated sections

Step 5: Processing Time

Lowlights process faster in porous hair:

• Virgin or low-porosity hair: 25-35 minutes
• Bleached or porous hair: 15-25 minutes
• Semi-permanent: 20 minutes maximum

Pro tip: Monitor lowlights closely on bleached hair. With the cuticle open, pigment penetrates quickly and can end up darker than expected.

Step 6: Rinse and Finish

1. Remove foils when color has developed
2. Emulsify with lukewarm water
3. Wash with gentle shampoo
4. Conditioner to seal cuticle
5. Evaluate result when dry to see true contrast

Formulation by Level and Objective

The key to successful lowlights is choosing the right tone. Here are formulas for different scenarios:

For Natural Blondes (Level 7-8) Who Want Dimension

Objective: Add subtle depth

Lowlight:
- 6N + 6.0 (1:1) → natural dark blonde
- 20 vol developer
- Time: 25-30 min

For Bleached Blondes (Level 9-10) Who Look Flat

Objective: Break monotony without over-darkening

Lowlight:
- 8N + 8.1 (2:1) → ash blonde
- 10 vol developer
- Time: 20-25 min

To Disguise Early Grays in Brunettes

Objective: Integrate grays into tonal variation

Lowlight:
- 5N + 5.3 (1:1) → light golden brown
- 20 vol developer
- Apply in gray-free zones to create contrast

Lowlights in Warm vs Cool Tones

Objective	Recommended Reflect	Example
Warm dimension	Gold, copper	7.3, 7.4
Cool dimension	Ash, beige	7.1, 7.2
Neutral natural	Natural	7N, 7.0

To better understand tone interactions, see our article on how to neutralize unwanted tones.

Lowlights vs Highlights: When to Use Each

Many clients confuse these techniques. Here’s the clear comparison:

Factor	Lowlights	Highlights
Action	Darken strands	Lighten strands
Product	Dye	Bleach
Objective	Depth, dimension	Light, brightness
Ideal for	Flat blondes	Darker hair wanting light
Damage	Minimal (no bleach)	Variable by developer
Maintenance	Fades gradually	Visible regrowth

The Perfect Combination: Highlights + Lowlights

Most multidimensional colorations combine both techniques:

• Highlights in natural light zones (crown, face frame)
• Lowlights in shadow zones (nape, inner layers)

This combination creates a three-dimensional effect that neither technique achieves alone. See our guide on balayage vs traditional highlights for more details on combinations.

Winning Combinations with Lowlights

Balayage + Lowlights

When balayage needs more depth:

• Existing balayage on mids and ends
• Lowlights at roots and upper mid-section
• Result: Gradient with dimension, not a “dry ends” effect

Babylights + Lowlights

For blondes who want subtle dimension:

• Babylights for brightness and light
• Lowlights to anchor and add body
• Result: Dimensional blonde, not flat or “helmet-like”

To master babylights, visit our guide on babylights natural technique.

Gray Coverage + Lowlights

Alternative to full coverage:

• Partial coverage in more concentrated areas
• Lowlights to integrate grays into overall variation
• Result: Natural look, not “salon dyed”

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

1. Lowlights Too Dark

The mistake: Choosing a tone 4-5 levels darker than base.

The consequence: Dark streaks that look like dirt, not dimension.

The solution: Maximum 2-3 levels difference for a natural result.

2. Concentrating in Visible Zones

The mistake: Placing lowlights on face frame and crown.

The consequence: “Dirty” effect in the most visible areas.

The solution: Lowlights go in shadow zones: nape, under crown, inner layers.

3. Not Considering Porosity

The mistake: Applying the same time on virgin hair as on bleached.

The consequence: Lowlights that turn black on porous hair.

The solution: Reduce time by 10-15 minutes on previously bleached hair.

4. Lowlights to the Ends on Damaged Hair

The mistake: Taking product all the way down on dry ends.

The consequence: Ends that absorb too much and become very dark.

The solution: Stop application 3-5 cm before ends on damaged hair.

5. Not Alternating with Clean Sections

The mistake: Doing lowlights on consecutive sections.

The consequence: Entire dark areas without contrast.

The solution: For each lowlight section, leave 1-2 untreated.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Long Do Lowlights Last?

Lowlights with permanent dye last 6-8 weeks visibly. Unlike highlights, they don’t show marked regrowth because the dark tone gradually fades with washes. Lowlights with semi-permanent last 4-6 weeks depending on porosity.

Do Lowlights Damage Hair?

Practically not at all. Lowlights use dye, not bleach, so damage is minimal. In highly processed hair, they can even improve appearance by giving the illusion of body and health that damaged hair loses.

Can You Do Lowlights on Dyed Hair?

Yes, and it’s one of the best applications. Uniformly dyed hair benefits greatly from lowlights to break monotony. Just make sure the lowlight tone is compatible with the existing dye.

Lowlights or Full Color to Disguise Grays?

Lowlights are ideal for scattered grays (less than 30%). They create tonal variation where grays integrate as part of the pattern. For more than 50% gray, consider partial coverage combined with strategic lowlights.

In Summary

Lowlights are an essential tool for creating real dimension in hair:

• Break monotony: Transform flat blondes into vibrant blondes
• Disguise grays: Without the commitment of full coverage
• Low damage: No bleaching required
• Complement other techniques: Ideal with highlights, balayage, or babylights

Mastering lowlights allows you to offer a service that few colorists execute well. It’s the difference between a “salon blonde” and a blonde that looks natural, alive, and moving.

Want to calculate precise formulas for lowlights and other techniques? Try Blendsor free. The AI analyzes your client’s hair and suggests optimal formulation based on her current level and desired result.

---

This article is part of our complete guide to professional coloring techniques. Explore other techniques like babylights, foilyage, and balayage.