Formula: Balayage from level 3 to level 5
Balayage from level 3 (Dark brown) to level 5 (Light brown) is one of the most requested freehand lightening techniques in the salon. This process requires 2 levels of lift, which means working against the dark red underlying pigment at the starting level. The main challenge is achieving a smooth, natural transition from darker roots to lighter ends while preventing the red-orange underlying pigment at the target level from leaving an unwanted tone. Success depends on product saturation, choosing the right developer, and controlling processing time. Below we guide you step by step with the technical parameters you need to achieve a professional, predictable result.
Process steps
Diagnosis and sectioning
Analyze the hair dry under natural light. Identify the starting level (3) and evaluate porosity. Section hair into 4 main parts (2 sides, nape, crown). The underlying pigment at the starting level will be dark red.
Mix preparation
Prepare lightener with 20vol (6%) developer in a 1:2 ratio. Consistency should be creamy and thick enough to adhere without dripping. For 2 levels of lift, 20vol provides the necessary power without compromising hair integrity.
Freehand application
Start at the nape, taking fine 1-2 cm sections. Apply product from mid-lengths to ends with vertical brush strokes, fully saturating the ends where you want maximum brightness. Leave 2-3 cm of root area without product to create the natural gradient effect. Gradually increase saturation toward the upper sections and face frame.
Processing time control
Process for 35-50 minutes, checking every 10 minutes. The goal is to reach level 5 (Light brown). The underlying pigment you will see is red-orange. Don't be alarmed by this tone: it's the necessary step before toning. If any section lightens faster, you can partially remove the product with a damp towel.
Rinse and toning
Rinse with lukewarm water until all product is removed. If the underlying pigment shows unwanted red-orange tones, apply a toner using Blue-green to neutralize red-orange. Process 15-20 minutes and rinse again. Finish with a reconstructing treatment to seal the cuticle.
Technical details
Professional tips
- For 2 levels of lift, saturate the ends well and feather the product upward. Gravity is your ally in balayage.
- If the hair has previous highlights, reduce the developer by one volume to avoid over-processing in already lightened areas.
- Balayage always benefits from a final toner to unify the result. Don't skip it even if the underlying pigment looks clean.
- Use a hand mirror to check symmetry between both sides before processing time is up.
Frequently asked questions
About this specific formula
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