Formula: Full color from level 5 to level 6
Full color from level 5 (Light brown) to level 6 (Dark blonde) is the most fundamental service in a color professional's work. With 1 level of lift, we start from a red-orange underlying pigment that will evolve to the orange background at the target level. Unlike partial techniques, here the entire head is worked from roots to ends, requiring systematic application and precise time control to avoid over-processing. Developer selection is critical: too low a volume won't reach the desired level, while too high can damage the hair fiber. This guide provides the exact formula, timings, and application technique for a uniform result.
Process steps
Hair diagnosis
Evaluate the current level (5, Light brown), porosity, and chemical history. If there is gray hair, calculate the percentage as it affects formulation. The current underlying pigment (red-orange) will evolve to orange when reaching level 6.
Color formulation
Select a level 6 dye with the desired reflect. Mix with 20vol (6%) developer in a 1:1 or 1:1.5 ratio depending on the brand. To counteract the underlying pigment, incorporate Blue to neutralize orange. If there is more than 50% gray, use the .0 (natural) version as a base.
Systematic application
For first application (virgin root): apply mid-lengths to ends first, then roots. For touch-up: apply to root only, extending to lengths in the last 5-10 minutes. Work in 1 cm sections starting at the nape, where hair is thicker and takes longer to process.
Processing and emulsifying
Process 30-45 minutes at room temperature. Do not cover with foil or apply heat. At 30 minutes, verify the color has developed correctly. Emulsify with a little warm water before rinsing: this helps distribute color evenly through the ends.
Rinsing and post-color care
Rinse with lukewarm water until it runs clear. Apply the post-color treatment from the same line to seal the pigment and balance pH. Avoid shampoo for the first 24 hours to maximize color durability.
Technical details
Professional tips
- Never apply heat to speed up permanent color processing. Heat alters the formulation and can produce unpredictable results.
- If there is more than 30% gray, consider using the .0 (natural) series as the base of the formulation to ensure coverage.
- The final emulsification (add warm water and massage) distributes pigment evenly and softens the demarcation line.
- On level 5 hair, the first application always goes mid-lengths to ends first, roots after. Never the other way around.
Frequently asked questions
About this specific formula
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