Espresso Martini Brunette: 2026 Trend Guide

Have clients asked you for that “celebrity brunette” without knowing exactly how to describe it?

If you work as a professional colorist, you’ve surely noticed the shift: clients no longer want flat browns or lifeless chestnuts. They want that deep, glossy brown that looks fresh from a photo shoot. And it has a name: Espresso Martini Brunette.

I’m going to explain exactly what this color is, how to formulate it step by step, and why it has become the most requested brown of 2026.

What Is Espresso Martini Brunette

Espresso Martini Brunette is a level 3-4 dark brown with a cool-neutral undertone and intense dimensional shine. It differs from traditional browns through its multitonal depth and subtle violet-ash reflections that catch light without being obvious. It is the most requested brunette shade of 2026 due to its versatility, low maintenance, and editorial finish.

According to Pantone, dark tones with depth are dominating 2026 color trends due to their versatility and elegance. The name comes from the cocktail: dark, intense, with that creamy shine on the surface that catches the eye.

Defining characteristics:

Aspect	Espresso Martini Brunette	Traditional Brown
Level	3-4	4-6
Undertone	Cool-neutral with ash touch	Variable, often warm
Shine	High, dimensional	Medium, can be dull
Reflections	Subtle violet/ash	Generally absent
Maintenance	Low-medium	Low

Why It’s Trending

Espresso Martini Brunette connects with several macro trends of 2026:

1. Quiet luxury: Elegant without being flashy
2. Low maintenance: Grows out naturally without obvious demarcation line
3. Universally flattering: Works with almost all skin tones
4. Editorial look: Runway aesthetic, made accessible

As we detail in our color trends guide, this year marks the return of rich browns with dimension.

Who It Flatters

Espresso Martini Brunette is one of the most universal colors, but certain combinations make it shine especially.

Ideal Skin Tones

Works especially well on:

• Cool skin (pink, porcelain): The cool undertone of the color harmonizes
• Neutral skin: The color’s balance adapts perfectly
• Olive skin: Contrasts elegantly without yellowing

Works well but requires adjustment on:

• Very warm skin (intense golden): Add a touch of .3 reflect to warm slightly

Eye Colors

• Dark eyes (brown, black): Intensifies the gaze
• Light eyes (green, hazel): Creates dramatic contrast
• Blue eyes: Striking effect, very editorial

Who Should Avoid It

• Clients wanting a radical change from blonde (long process)
• Those seeking obvious highlights or very marked dimension
• Very damaged hair that doesn’t retain dark color

Pro tip: Espresso Martini Brunette is perfect for clients coming in with failed copper or red color jobs. The cool undertone neutralizes warm residues.

Step-by-Step Technique

Materials Needed

• Level 3 permanent dye neutral base (.0)
• Level 4 permanent dye ash (.1) or matte (.2)
• 20 volume developer (or 10 vol for deposit only)
• Clear gloss/shine treatment
• Pre-service heat protector

Prior Analysis

Before formulating, assess:

1. Starting level: What is the natural or current level?
2. Color history: Is there previous bleaching? Warm residues?
3. Hair condition: Porosity? Damage?
4. Client expectation: How dark do they want?

For deeper level analysis, check our colorimetry basics guide.

Base Formula

Virgin hair level 5-6 (medium brown):

70% - Level 3.0 (neutral)
30% - Level 4.1 (ash)
Developer: 20 vol
Time: 35-40 minutes

Previously colored hair (no bleaching):

60% - Level 3.0 (neutral)
30% - Level 4.1 (ash)
10% - Ash/violet corrector
Developer: 20 vol
Time: 30-35 minutes

Bleached hair (level 7+):

Step 1: Fill with level 5.0 + 6.0 (50/50), 10 vol, 10 min
Step 2: Base formula with 10 vol developer
Step 2 time: 25-30 minutes

Formulation by Starting Level

According to the International Association of Trichologists, previously bleached hair loses up to 45% of its lipid content, which directly affects dark pigment retention. Use this table to adjust your formula based on the client’s starting point:

Starting Level	Formula	Developer	Time	Pre-Step Required
3-4 (dark brown)	70% 3.0 + 30% 4.1	20 vol	35-40 min	None
5-6 (medium-light brown)	70% 3.0 + 30% 4.1	20 vol	35-40 min	None
7-8 (medium-light blonde)	60% 3.0 + 30% 4.1 + 10% corrector	20 vol	30-35 min	Pre-pigmentation with 5.0+6.0
9-10 (very light blonde)	60% 3.0 + 30% 4.1 + 10% corrector	10 vol	25-30 min	Fill with 5.0+6.0 (50/50), 10 vol
Bleached	Base formula + 10% extra corrector	10 vol	25-30 min	Mandatory fill: 5.0+6.0, 10 min

Application Process

Step 1: Preparation

Apply heat protector on dry hair. Don’t wash before service; natural oils protect the scalp.

Step 2: Sectioning

Divide into 4 quadrants. Work from nape to crown, roots to ends.

Step 3: Application

• On virgin hair: Apply 2cm from root first, leave 20 min, then roots
• On previously colored hair: Assess porosity; porous ends may grab darker

Step 4: Processing

Total time: 35-40 minutes. Watch that it doesn’t go too dark; color continues depositing in the final minutes.

Processing Times by Hair Type

Timing varies significantly depending on hair structure and history:

Hair Type	Porosity	Base Time	Adjustment	Control Signal
Virgin fine	Low	35 min	Reduce 5 min if absorbing quickly	Even shine without patchiness
Virgin coarse	Low-medium	40 min	Full time needed	Complete strand saturation
Previously colored	Medium-high	30 min	Reduce 5-10 min on ends	Uniform color root-to-tip
Bleached	High	25 min	Check every 5 min from minute 15	No excessive darkening

Step 5: Rinse and Treatment

Rinse until water runs clear. Apply conditioning treatment. For the characteristic Espresso Martini shine, consider a final gloss.

The Secret: The Final Gloss

What sets a good brown apart from an Espresso Martini Brunette is the shine. After coloring, apply:

Clear gloss or with violet touch
Developer: 5-10 vol
Time: 5-10 minutes

This step seals the cuticle, adds mirror-like shine, and neutralizes any residual warmth.

Espresso Martini Variations

Espresso with Chocolate Highlights

For clients wanting a bit more dimension:

Base: Standard formula
Subtle highlights: Level 5.35 (golden chocolate)
Technique: Very fine babylights only on top layers

Intense Cold Espresso

For a more dramatic, editorial look:

70% - Level 2.1 (ash black)
30% - Level 3.1 (ash brown)
Final gloss: With violet pigment

Espresso with Red Touch

For very warm skin tones that need adjustment:

60% - Level 3.0 (neutral)
30% - Level 4.5 (mahogany)
10% - Level 4.1 (ash)

Espresso Variation Comparison

Not sure which variation to recommend? This table helps you match the right option to each client profile:

Variation	Result Level	Undertone	Best For	Maintenance
Classic	3-4	Cool-neutral	Cool and neutral skin tones; editorial look	Low (touch-up every 6-8 weeks)
Chocolate highlights	3-5	Neutral-warm	Clients wanting visible dimension	Medium (babylights every 8-10 weeks)
Intense cold	2-3	Cool ash	Dramatic look; very fair skin	Low (monthly violet gloss)
Red touch	3-4	Neutral with mahogany	Warm and golden skin tones	Medium (red undertone fades faster)

Client Maintenance

Espresso Martini Brunette is relatively easy to maintain, but there are key products:

Recommended Products

• Sulfate-free shampoo: Preserves color longer
• Purple shampoo (1x per week): Maintains cool undertone
• Hydrating mask: Maintains characteristic shine
• Shine serum: For daily mirror finish

Touch-Up Frequency

• Roots: Every 6-8 weeks (grows out very naturally)
• Maintenance gloss: Every 4-6 weeks for maximum shine
• Deep treatment: Monthly

What to Avoid

• Frequent clarifying shampoos (strip pigment)
• Very hot water when washing
• Heat tools without protector

How to Sell It in the Salon

Spotting Candidates

Pay attention when you hear:

• “I want a brown but not boring”
• “I’d like to go darker but with shine”
• “Something elegant but easy to maintain”
• “That celebrity brown”

Sales Arguments

1. It’s the most photogenic brown: Always looks great in photos
2. Low maintenance: Roots grow out naturally
3. Universally flattering: Enhances any skin tone
4. Trending: It’s the color influencers are requesting

Suggested Pricing

Service	Complexity	Range
Espresso from medium brown	Low	€€
Espresso from blonde (with fill)	High	€€€
Espresso + shine gloss	Medium	€€-€€€
Monthly maintenance	Low	€

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Mistake 1: Too Flat Result

The problem: The brown comes out dull, lifeless.

The solution: Always include the final gloss step. The difference between a common brown and an Espresso Martini is the shine. For more on formulation errors, check our color correction guide.

Mistake 2: Green Tones

The problem: On previously bleached hair, green reflects appear.

The solution: Always fill before darkening bleached hair. The red and orange pigments removed by bleaching need to be replaced.

Mistake 3: Too Dark Result

The problem: Hair ends up black, not espresso brown.

The solution: Monitor processing time. If the client has porous or fine hair, reduce time by 5-10 minutes. Better to fall short and do a second pass than to go too far.

Mistake 4: Ends Darker Than Roots

The problem: Ends absorb more color and become uneven.

The solution: On porous hair, apply to roots and mids first. Add ends only in the last 10-15 minutes with diluted or lighter formula.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Long Does Espresso Martini Brunette Last?

The base color lasts 6-8 weeks without significant change. The characteristic intense shine may require gloss maintenance every 4-6 weeks to maintain the “mirror” effect.

Can I Achieve It from Platinum Blonde in One Session?

Not recommended. From very light blonde, you need at least 2 sessions: one for fill and pre-pigmentation, another for final color. Attempting it in one session results in color that doesn’t last and green ends.

Is It the Same as “Expensive Brunette”?

They’re similar but not identical. Expensive Brunette includes obvious dimensional highlights. Espresso Martini Brunette is more uniform, with shine but without marked highlights. Espresso is the “cleaner” version.

Does It Work on Gray Hair?

Yes, with 100% coverage. The neutral-ash formula covers grays very well. Add an extra 10% of .0 base if there’s more than 50% gray to ensure total coverage.

Can It Be Done with Semi-Permanent Products?

For the authentic result, you need permanent dye for pigment depth. A semi-permanent can give a similar effect but will last less and the shine will be different.

In Summary

• Espresso Martini Brunette is the star brown of 2026: deep, glossy, and elegant
• The key is the cool-neutral undertone and final gloss: this differentiates it from common browns
• Works on almost all skin tones: it’s one of the most universal colors
• Low maintenance: roots grow out naturally without demarcation line
• Easy sell: it’s what clients are looking for even if they don’t know the name

Want to calculate personalized formulas for Espresso Martini Brunette based on each client’s starting level? Try Blendsor free and let AI suggest exact proportions.

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Article updated January 2026 with the latest trends.