The 5 Grey Hair Coverage Levels Explained

Do you still think covering grey hair always means 100%? That approach is becoming outdated.

If you work with clients over 40, you’ve probably noticed a shift. More and more women want natural results, low maintenance, and services that respect their transition to grey hair. Not everyone wants to hide every single grey.

Today we’ll explore the 5 grey hair coverage levels every colorist should master. From full coverage to the most subtle grey blending. Because choosing the right level isn’t about technique: it’s about listening to your client.

What Are Grey Coverage Levels

Grey coverage levels define what percentage of visible grey hair will be covered after the service. The 5 levels are:

1. Full coverage (100%): Eliminates all visible greys. Touch-up every 3-4 weeks.
2. High coverage (75%): Hides most greys but leaves some for a natural look. Touch-up every 4-5 weeks.
3. Grey blending (50%): Harmonious mix between color and natural grey. Touch-up every 6-8 weeks.
4. Soft blending (25%): Keeps most greys visible, softens contrast. Touch-up every 8-12 weeks.
5. No coverage (0%): Doesn’t cover greys; focuses on toning and caring for grey hair. Touch-up every 6-8 weeks (toning only).

According to the Professional Beauty Association, demand for grey blending and partial coverage services has grown 40% in the last three years. Clients no longer want to choose between “all or nothing.”

To understand how colorimetry applies to grey hair, check out our complete colorimetry basics guide.

Why Choosing the Right Level Matters

Choosing the right coverage level affects:

• Natural-looking results: More coverage isn’t always better
• Maintenance frequency: Higher coverage means more touch-ups
• Cumulative damage: Fewer chemicals means healthier hair
• Client satisfaction: Alignment with their expectations

The most common mistake is assuming all clients want full coverage. The reality is that many would prefer a more subtle service if they knew it existed.

Level 1: Full Coverage (100%)

What It Is

Full coverage eliminates 100% of visible grey hair. The hair is uniformly colored, with no trace of natural grey.

Who It’s Ideal For

• Clients who want to completely hide grey hair
• Professionals with strict dress codes
• Those who prefer a more “polished” and uniform look
• Clients with less than 30% grey (maintenance is more manageable)

Basic Technique

To achieve full coverage, you need:

Factor	Requirement
Pre-pigmentation	Mandatory with +50% grey
Natural base	50-60% of the formula
Developer	20 vol (never more)
Processing time	45-50 minutes minimum

The key is pre-pigmentation. Without it, resistant greys won’t retain color. Check our complete grey coverage guide for the detailed technique.

Maintenance

• Frequency: Every 3-4 weeks
• Commitment: High (roots are very visible)
• Cumulative cost: The highest of all levels

Pro tip: If your client has more than 70% grey and wants full coverage, have an honest conversation about the maintenance commitment before starting.

Level 2: High Coverage (75%)

What It Is

High coverage hides most grey hair but allows some to remain visible. The result is more natural than full coverage because it maintains some tonal variation.

Who It’s Ideal For

• Clients who want “less grey” but not zero
• Those seeking a more natural look
• Gradual transition to less coverage
• Clients with 40-60% grey

Basic Technique

Factor	Requirement
Pre-pigmentation	Recommended (not mandatory)
Natural base	40-50% of the formula
Developer	20 vol
Processing time	40-45 minutes

The main technical difference: you use less natural base and can skip pre-pigmentation on non-resistant greys.

The Secret to 75%

To achieve exactly 75% coverage:

1. Apply to concentrated grey areas: Only in zones with higher grey density
2. Leave free zones: Small sections without product
3. Emulsify selectively: Don’t bring color to all greys during emulsification

The result is natural grey streaks among the color, adding dimension.

Maintenance

• Frequency: Every 4-5 weeks
• Commitment: Medium-high
• Advantage: Roots are less noticeable than with full coverage

Level 3: Medium Coverage (50%) - Grey Blending

What It Is

Grey blending is the star technique of recent years. It covers approximately half of the grey hair, creating a harmonious mix between color and natural grey.

Who It’s Ideal For

• Clients transitioning to their natural grey
• Those who want low maintenance
• Modern, current styles
• Clients with 50%+ grey who don’t want to fight against it

Basic Technique

Factor	Requirement
Pre-pigmentation	Not necessary
Natural base	30-40% of the formula
Developer	10-20 vol
Processing time	30-35 minutes

Grey blending requires a mindset shift: you’re not “covering” greys, you’re creating harmony between grey and color.

Grey Blending Techniques

Option 1: Lowlights

Apply color only to selected strands, leaving greys visible between them.

Option 2: Tone-on-tone

Use a semi-permanent color 1-2 levels lighter than natural. It partially covers and fades naturally.

Option 3: Pigmented gloss

A hair gloss with slight pigment softens contrast without fully covering.

Maintenance

• Frequency: Every 6-8 weeks
• Commitment: Low
• Advantage: Regrowth blends naturally

Pro tip: Grey blending works best when the base color harmonizes with the grey tone. If the grey is warm, use golden tones. If it’s cool, use ash tones.

Level 4: Low Coverage (25%) - Soft Blending

What It Is

Low coverage keeps most greys visible, adding only touches of color to soften the contrast with still-pigmented areas.

Who It’s Ideal For

• Clients embracing their grey
• Advanced transition to natural hair
• Those who want minimal intervention
• Clients with 70%+ grey

Basic Technique

Factor	Requirement
Pre-pigmentation	Never
Product	Toner or gloss
Developer	10 vol or no developer
Processing time	15-20 minutes

Here you’re not covering greys: you’re balancing the remaining hair with the dominant grey.

Soft Blending Techniques

Option 1: Tone the pigmented hair

Instead of coloring greys, tone pigmented areas toward shades that harmonize with the grey.

Option 2: Reverse highlights

Lighten strands of pigmented hair so they approach the grey tone.

Option 3: Silver highlights

Add silver highlights that unify the overall look.

Maintenance

• Frequency: Every 8-12 weeks
• Commitment: Very low
• Advantage: Almost invisible transition

Level 5: No Coverage (0%) - Natural Transition

What It Is

Natural transition doesn’t cover any grey. The service focuses on caring for the hair and, if needed, improving the tone of existing grey.

Who It’s Ideal For

• Clients who have decided to stop coloring
• Those who want brilliant, healthy grey
• Final transition from any other level
• Clients who value authenticity

The “No Coverage” Service

No coverage doesn’t mean no service. You can offer:

Service	Benefit
Silver toning	Removes yellows from grey
Shine treatment	Luminous grey, not dull
Transition cut	Gradually eliminate previous color
Deep care	Hydration for grey hair (drier)

The Silver Toning Technique

Grey hair can become yellowish due to:

• Sun exposure
• Pollution
• Silicone products
• Hard water

A violet toning every 4-6 weeks keeps grey cool and shiny. Use products specific for silver hair or a diluted violet gloss.

Maintenance

• Frequency: Every 6-8 weeks (toning only)
• Commitment: Minimal
• Advantage: Total freedom, healthy hair

Pro tip: The “natural transition” service can be premium. Clients pay for your expertise in achieving beautiful grey, not for liters of dye.

How to Choose the Right Level: The Conversation

Key Questions

Before deciding the level, you need information:

1. What do you want to achieve? (Don’t assume it’s full coverage)
2. How often can you come to the salon? (Maintenance realism)
3. How do you feel about your greys? (Attitude toward aging)
4. Have you considered lower coverage options? (Open possibilities)

The Decision Matrix

If the client…	Suggest level
Wants zero visible greys	1 (100%)
Wants less grey but natural	2 (75%)
Accepts her greys but wants to soften	3 (50%)
Is in active transition	4 (25%)
Wants to embrace her grey	5 (0%)

Additional Factors

• Current grey percentage: With +70% grey, levels 3-5 usually give better results
• Hair texture: Fine hair with full coverage looks “flat”
• Lifestyle: Active clients prefer low maintenance
• Budget: Full coverage is the most expensive long-term option

The Future: Why Intermediate Levels Matter

The industry is changing. The Pantone Color Institute has highlighted silver and grey tones as a sustained trend, not a passing one. Clients no longer see greys as something to obligatorily hide.

As a colorist, mastering all 5 levels allows you to:

• Offer options: Not all clients know they exist
• Differentiate yourself: Many salons only offer “all or nothing”
• Increase satisfaction: The right level = happy client
• Reduce damage: Less chemistry, healthier hair
• Build loyalty: Customized services create long relationships

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change coverage levels between appointments?

Yes, but with gradual transitions. Going from 100% to 0% at once is technically possible but visually abrupt. The recommendation is to lower one level every 2-3 appointments for a natural transition.

Does grey blending work with any grey color?

Grey blending works best when there’s controlled contrast. If greys are yellowish, first tone toward cool grey. If pigmented hair is very dark (level 2-3), consider lightening slightly to reduce contrast with grey.

What level do you recommend for clients just starting to get greys?

For clients with less than 30% grey, any level works. The question is: do they prefer to start with high coverage or establish from the beginning a lower maintenance routine? Many clients appreciate starting with grey blending (level 3) because maintenance is more manageable long-term.

How do I price different coverage levels?

Pricing should be based on time, product, and expertise, not just “more coverage = more expensive.” A technical grey blending may require more skill than full coverage. Consider creating specific packages for each level with prices that reflect service value.

Do resistant greys change the level choice?

Resistant (vitreous) greys make any coverage level difficult. However, they’re less problematic in levels 3-5 because you’re not seeking perfect coverage. For levels 1-2 with resistant greys, pre-pigmentation remains mandatory.

In Summary

The 5 grey coverage levels give you a vocabulary to talk with your clients:

• Level 1 (100%): Full coverage, high maintenance
• Level 2 (75%): Majority covered, natural look
• Level 3 (50%): Grey blending, perfect balance
• Level 4 (25%): Soft blending, advanced transition
• Level 5 (0%): No coverage, beautiful grey

The best coverage isn’t the maximum. It’s what your client actually wants and can maintain.

Want to calculate the perfect formula for each level? Try Blendsor free. The AI analyzes grey percentage and suggests formulations adapted to the coverage level your client prefers.