Shades EQ Color Chart: All Tones and Formulas by Level

How many times have you searched “08NB Shades EQ” to confirm exactly what tone it deposits?

If you work with Redken, you know that the Shades EQ color chart is one of the most extensive on the market — over 80 shades organized into families with codes that aren’t always intuitive. And when you have a client in the chair, you need certainty, not guesswork.

In this guide you’ll find the complete updated shade chart, what each code means, the most requested shades with real-world combinations, and the most common mistakes. Everything you need to formulate with Shades EQ without hesitation.

If you’re not yet comfortable with how demi-permanent systems work, check our colorimetry basics guide first.

Quick summary: Redken Shades EQ is an acidic demi-permanent gloss (pH ~6.0) with over 80 shades in 25 families. Each code combines a level number (01-10) plus family letters (N, NB, V, T, etc.). Deposit only — no lift. Most used: 09NB (creamy beige), 06N (shadow root), 09V (cool platinum).

What is Shades EQ and why does it dominate professional salons?

Shades EQ is Redken’s acidic demi-permanent gloss (pH ~6.0), ammonia-free, that deposits color on the cuticle without opening it. Mixed 1:1 with Processing Solution, it processes in 20 minutes and lasts 15-20 washes. Key advantage: one system for toning post-bleach, refreshing color between services, pure shine gloss (Clear 000 shade), and shadow roots.

Shades EQ is Redken’s acidic demi-permanent gloss, with a pH of approximately 6.0 that deposits color without opening the cuticle. Unlike permanent color, it contains no ammonia and works exclusively on the hair surface.

Feature	Shades EQ
Type	Acidic demi-permanent
pH	~6.0
Ammonia	No
Activator	Processing Solution (not peroxide)
Mix ratio	1:1
Processing time	20 minutes
Durability	15-20 washes
Lifting power	None (deposit only)

According to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, acidic pH systems deposit pigment on the outer cuticle without altering the hair’s internal structure. This is why Shades EQ leaves hair with more shine and better texture than alkaline color.

What makes Shades EQ unique is its versatility: it works as a post-lightening toner, as a color refresh between services, as a pure shine gloss (with the Clear 000 shade), and as a base for shadow roots. One system, multiple services.

Pro tip: Shades EQ doesn’t lift. If your client needs to go lighter, lighten first with bleach or permanent color, then apply Shades EQ as a final toner.

How do you read Shades EQ color codes?

Each Shades EQ code has two parts: a number from 01 to 10 indicating depth level (01 = black, 10 = extra light blonde) and one or two letters identifying the tone family. For example, 08NB = level 8 + Natural Beige. Understanding this system lets you decode any shade in seconds. You can also use the Redken color chart tool for quick lookups.

Before seeing the full chart, you need to understand the naming system. Each shade has a two-part format: number + letters.

• The number (01–10) indicates the depth level. 01 is black, 10 is extra light blonde.
• The letters indicate the tone family — the reflect or undertone it deposits.

Tone families

Code	Family	What it deposits	Primary use
N	Natural	Neutral, no dominant reflect	Base, gray coverage, refreshing natural
NB	Natural Beige	Neutral with warm beige undertone	Shadow roots, creamy natural tones
NW	Natural Warm	Neutral with extra warmth	Counteract excess ash, add warmth
NA	Natural Ash	Neutral with ash undertone	Neutralize unwanted warmth
G	Gold	Golden	Golden blondes, warm highlights
GB	Gold Beige	Golden with beige	Buttery blondes, “buttercream” tones
GG	Gold Gold	Intense gold	Maximum golden reflects
GI	Gold Iridescent	Iridescent gold	Multi-dimensional blondes
GN	Gold Natural	Gold with natural base	Subtle golds, more discreet
V	Violet	Violet	Neutralize yellow in blondes
VB	Violet Blue	Blue-violet	Neutralize yellow-orange
VRo	Violet Rose	Rose violet	Rosé blondes, mauve tones
T	Titanium	Metallic ash	Cool blondes, grays, smoky
P	Pearl	Pearl	Pearlescent blondes with iridescence
C	Copper	Copper	Vibrant coppers
CB	Copper Brown	Brown copper	Deep coppers, amber
CC	Copper Copper	Intense copper	Maximum coppers, fantasy
CR	Copper Red	Red copper	Transition between copper and red
R	Red	Red	Vibrant reds
RB	Red Brown	Brown red	Mahoganies, cherry cola
RR	Red Red	Intense red	Maximum reds
RV	Red Violet	Violet red	Burgundies, wines
AA	Ash Ash	Intense ash	Maximum orange neutralization
M	Matte	Matte (green)	Neutralize red in dark levels
WG	Warm Gold	Warm gold	Honey tones, soft warmth

Example: The code 08NB means level 8 (light blonde) + Natural Beige family. It deposits a neutral reflect with a beige undertone — one of the most versatile and requested shades in the entire chart.

What are all the Shades EQ shades organized by level?

The complete Shades EQ chart spans over 80 shades across 10 depth levels, from 01B (Onyx) to level 9 shades for very light blondes. Levels 6 and 7 have the widest variety — 17 and 15 shades respectively — covering the dark blonde to medium blonde range where most color correction work happens.

Here are all available shades organized by depth level. The commercial names help you visualize the result.

Levels 1-3 (darks)

Code	Name	Family
01B	Onyx	Blue
02M	Midnight Ash	Matte
03A	Terra Cotta	Ash
03G	Cinnamon	Gold
03N	Espresso	Natural
03NB	Mocha Java	Natural Beige
03NW	Cocoa Bean	Natural Warm
03R	Roxy Red	Red
03RB	Mahogany	Red Brown
03RV	Merlot	Red Violet
03V	Orchid	Violet

Level 4 (medium brown)

Code	Name	Family
04CB	Clove	Copper Brown
04M	Smoked Cedar	Matte
04N	Chicory	Natural
04NA	Storm Cloud	Natural Ash
04NB	Maple	Natural Beige
04RV	Cabernet	Red Violet
04VRo	Violet Rose	Violet Rose
04WG	Sun Tea	Warm Gold

Level 5 (light brown)

Code	Name	Family
05C	Chili	Copper
05CC	Electric Shock	Copper Copper
05G	Caramel	Gold
05N	Walnut	Natural
05NA	Smoke	Natural Ash
05NW	Macchiato	Natural Warm
05RB	Manzanita	Red Brown
05RV	Sangria	Red Violet
05V	Cosmic Violet	Violet

Level 6 (dark blonde)

Code	Name	Family
06AA	Bonfire	Ash Ash
06CB	Amber Glaze	Copper Brown
06CR	Sunset	Copper Red
06G	St. Tropez	Gold
06GB	Toffee	Gold Beige
06GG	Midas Touch	Gold Gold
06GI	Tenerife	Gold Iridescent
06GN	Moss	Gold Natural
06N	Moroccan Sand	Natural
06NA	Granite	Natural Ash
06NB	Brandy	Natural Beige
06R	Rocket Fire	Red
06RB	Cherry Cola	Red Brown
06RR	Blaze	Red Red
06T	Iron	Titanium
06VB	Violet Lagoon	Violet Blue
06VRo	Mauve Rose	Violet Rose
06WG	Mango	Warm Gold

Level 7 (medium blonde)

Code	Name	Family
07C	Curry	Copper
07CB	Spicestone	Copper Brown
07CC	Urban Fever	Copper Copper
07G	Saffron	Gold
07GB	Butterscotch	Gold Beige
07M	Driftwood	Matte
07N	Mirage	Natural
07NA	Pewter	Natural Ash
07NB	Chestnut	Natural Beige
07NW	Milk Tea	Natural Warm
07P	Mother of Pearl	Pearl
07RR	Flame	Red Red
07T	Steel	Titanium
07V	Crushed Amethyst	Violet
07VB	Violet Star	Violet Blue

Level 8 (light blonde)

Code	Name	Family
08C	Cayenne	Copper
08CR	Sunrise	Copper Red
08GG	Gold Dip	Gold Gold
08GI	St. Barths	Gold Iridescent
08GN	Ivy	Gold Natural
08N	Mojave	Natural
08NA	Volcanic	Natural Ash
08NB	—	Natural Beige
08T	Silver	Titanium
08V	Iridescent Quartz	Violet
08VB	Violet Frost	Violet Blue

Level 9 (very light blonde)

Code	Name	Family
09AA	Papaya	Ash Ash
09G	Vanilla Crème	Gold
09GB	Buttercream	Gold Beige
09N	Café Au Lait	Natural
09NB	Irish Crème	Natural Beige
09P	Opal Glow	Pearl
09T	Chrome	Titanium
09V	Platinum Ice	Violet

Pro tip: Level 9 shades are the most used as post-lightening toners. If your client reaches a clean yellow undertone (level 9-10), these are your go-to formulas.

What are the 5 most-used Shades EQ shades in professional salons?

The five most-used salon shades are 09NB Irish Crème (the universal blonde toner), 06N Moroccan Sand (the all-purpose shadow root and refresh shade), 09V Platinum Ice (maximum cool platinum), 09GB Buttercream (honey blonde with sophistication), and 08N Mojave (neutral base in light blonde). Each solves a distinct color objective.

These are the shades that get searched the most and used the most in salons, based on search data and professional trends.

1. 09NB Irish Crème

The universal blonde toner. Deposits a creamy beige that neutralizes yellow without going ashy. Perfect when your client wants a “natural but better” blonde.

• Best for: Level 9-10 blondes post-lightening
• Neutralizes: Soft yellow
• Result: Creamy beige, “crème brûlée” quality

2. 06N Moroccan Sand

The most versatile shade in the chart. Works as a shadow root base, as a midtone refresher, and as a transition tone. If you could only have one Shades EQ shade, many colorists would choose this one.

• Best for: Shadow roots, refreshing brunettes, neutral base
• Neutralizes: Keeps neutral without cooling or warming
• Result: Natural luminous dark blonde

3. 09V Platinum Ice

When the goal is icy blonde with no compromise. It’s the most intense violet at level 9, designed to eliminate every trace of yellow.

• Best for: Platinum blondes, cool ash blondes
• Neutralizes: Maximum yellow
• Result: Icy platinum, “ice blonde” quality

4. 09GB Buttercream

For golden blondes with sophistication. Unlike a pure gold (09G), the beige component softens the warmth and prevents the result from looking “yellow.” It’s the tone behind the warm honey blonde trend everyone’s requesting.

• Best for: Honey blondes, buttery blondes
• Neutralizes: Doesn’t neutralize — adds golden-beige reflect
• Result: Soft gold, “butter blonde” quality

5. 08N Mojave

The level 8 neutralizer. When you need a clean natural tone in light blonde with no dominant reflect, this is your shade. Widely used to prepare a neutral base before applying a more specific reflect.

• Best for: Neutral base in light blonde, preparation
• Neutralizes: Soft gold
• Result: Clean natural light blonde, no dominant reflect

For a side-by-side comparison of these shades with their Schwarzkopf equivalents, check our Redken to Schwarzkopf conversion guide.

How do you mix Shades EQ shades for custom results?

You can mix any Shades EQ shades while always maintaining the overall 1:1 ratio of total color to Processing Solution. Most-used blends: 09NB + 09GB (2:1) for soft golden beige, 09V + 09P (1:1) for pearlescent platinum, and 06AA + 06N (1:2) to neutralize orange at levels 6-7 without going overly ashy.

The real power of Shades EQ lies in mixing. Here are verified combinations for the most requested results.

Goal	Formula	Ratio	Result
Creamy beige blonde	09NB + 09GB	2:1	Soft golden beige
Cool platinum blonde	09V + 09P	1:1	Pearlescent platinum
Natural shadow root	06N + 07NB	1:1	Smooth root transition
Elegant copper	07C + 07CB	1:1	Copper with depth
Neutralize orange (level 6-7)	06AA + 06N	1:2	Neutralizes without excess ash

Pro tip: When mixing two Shades EQ tones, always maintain the same 1:1 mix ratio with Processing Solution based on the total color amount. That is: if you use 30 ml of color (20 ml of one shade + 10 ml of another), mix with 30 ml of Processing Solution.

What are the most common mistakes when using Shades EQ?

The four main mistakes: trying to lift with Shades EQ (deposit only), substituting Processing Solution with conventional developer (disrupts the acidic pH), not adjusting the formula on highly porous hair (deposits darker than expected), and expecting full gray coverage (maximum ~50% with Natural series tones).

Even with a system as forgiving as Shades EQ, there are pitfalls. These are the most common mistakes when working with this gloss.

1. Using Shades EQ to lift: Shades EQ only deposits. If you apply a higher level than the natural base expecting to lighten, nothing will happen. Lift first with bleach or permanent color.

2. Confusing Processing Solution with developer: Shades EQ Processing Solution isn’t a conventional developer. It has a specific pH designed for this system. Substituting it with 10 or 20 volume peroxide alters the acidic pH and can produce unpredictable results.

3. Applying on very porous hair without adjusting: On highly porous hair (multiple lightening sessions), Shades EQ can deposit darker than expected. The fix: mix your chosen shade with Clear (000) at a 1:1 ratio to dilute the intensity.

4. Not saturating grays properly: Shades EQ covers grays partially (up to approximately 50% with natural tones). If your client has more than 50% gray, you need a permanent system or a mix with Redken’s Cover Fusion.

Frequently asked questions

Does Shades EQ cover gray hair 100%?

No. Shades EQ is demi-permanent and covers up to 50% gray using Natural (N) family tones. For full coverage, Redken recommends their Cover Fusion system or mixing Shades EQ with specific N-series tones at a level equal to or darker than natural.

How long does Shades EQ last?

Between 15 and 20 washes under normal conditions. Duration varies based on hair porosity, washing frequency, and the products your client uses. Highly porous hair retains more pigment but also releases it faster.

Can I mix shades from different levels?

Yes. It’s a common practice for achieving custom results. When mixing two different levels, the result will fall approximately between both. For example, mixing 08N with 06N at a 1:1 ratio will give a deposit close to level 7.

What’s the difference between Shades EQ and a regular salon gloss?

Shades EQ works with acidic pH (~6.0) and deposits real pigment, not just shine. A generic hair gloss is usually a shine treatment with no pigment or minimal pigment. Shades EQ changes the visible tone of the hair; a basic gloss only improves shine.

Are 08NB and 09NB the same tone at different levels?

Not exactly. While both belong to the Natural Beige (NB) family, each level has a specific formulation adapted to its corresponding underlying pigment. 08NB deposits beige over a yellow-orange undertone (level 8), while 09NB deposits beige over a pure yellow undertone (level 9). The final result is different.

In summary

• Shades EQ has over 80 shades organized into 25 families with specific letter codes
• The naming system combines number (level 1-10) + letters (tone family)
• Most versatile shades: 09NB (beige blonde), 06N (shadow root), 09V (cool platinum)
• Deposit only, no lift — always lighten first if you need to go higher
• Mix with Processing Solution 1:1 — never substitute with conventional developer

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What’s your go-to Shades EQ shade? The classic 09NB or do you have a secret mix?